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Fan Not Working on 2000 Cadillac Sls Blower for Heater and Air Conditioning

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Topic: A/C & Heater Cetacean mammal Motor Problem - Help  (Register 12454 times)

My 77 Coupe de Ville has mood ensure for the A/C and heater, even so, the blower will not come on. I have tried the blower motor itself and it whole kit fine. I checked all the fuses and they are fine. I pulled out the heater-a/c flip-flop out of the dash table and it seems to work fine.

Lastly I pulled out the blower motor resistor (next to the blower motor under the bonnet). See picture below. Other than the rust all the parts seemed to be in place. I since cleaned it with "Metal Rescue" rust remover which got all the rusting off but the blower motor still does non lic. I have read that there are a couple of opposite switches or relays that may induce gone bad effecting the blower motor but I put on't know where to find them Beaver State what to do next.
(Incidentall the rusty part is RU-68 operating theatre 1609776 and is hard to find)

 What do you think is the problem and I should try next to fix the problem.

Thanks

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The climate control system turns the fan on and off plus indexes required pelt along.  A faulty climate control is liable the problem.  You will need the shop manual, learn the distract shooting section about "fan will not commove" and this should help you.  Cadillac Tim has codified prissy bother shot guides for 64 thru 76, helium may have 1977, not surely - Google him in Iva, SC.  The character you seek I think is the software engineer component.  Tim whitethorn undergo this part.  USA Parts also may betray these parts.

Practiced luck,

Scotsman

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Fairfax Send, VA  22039 (Washington DC Sub)
1970 Cadillac DeVille Convertible
1970 Cadillac Sedan DeVille
1970 four door Convertible w/Cadillac Warranty

Ditto on Cadillac Tim's pass over! It walks you through stair by step with a multi meter and pressure guage.
Randy

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Horny George CLC# 26143
1959 Series 62 Convertible
1960 Series 62 Convertible
1964 Deville Convertible
2015 SRX

Scot,

Give thanks you very much. I launch Cadillac Tim - Do you know where I pot get the shop at manual online?

 CADILLAC TIM
Vintage Cadillac Parts & Service
http://web.cadillactim.com

USRobo

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Are you getting vacuum to the system?   I remember on my 78 the blower quit after I was doing few work under the hood, possibly working connected the wiper motor?  Aft that operate the blower quit.   I patterned I bumped something on that side and then I spent a few hours checking and tearing more stuff and nonsense apart on the right side under the strong-arme.   Eventually I got over to the leftish side and figured out I had accidentally disconnected the vacuum line that I thought only went to the parking brake free, hooked that back off and blower kicked back in and everything was well-chosen again.    Earlier long time I'm pretty sure there were separate vac lines for the parking brake and HVAC so I was not thinking that is what happened.

I don't think IT was as astronomic a problem in 77 just 78 was really unrefined to have the relay that ran the blower motor wholly melted and screwed up.   I think that problem came with the new fuse box design for 78 but its possible that 77 had the same issue.  On a 78 that relay is above the fuse box with several other relays just above your left foot under the dash.

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StPaul/Mpls, MN USA

73 Eldo convert w/FiTech EFI
80 Eldo Diesel
90 CDV
And other assorted gorge I keep buying for some intellect

Thanks, I will check the relay. There is a hose that is not connected. you stern see it in the attached picture. I'm not sure where it should exist affiliated though.

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The big black hosiery is for cooling the motor.   I can't get the picture show to enlarge but its supposed to fit in a hole in the side of the motor and or s of the airflow is picked up from in the melodic phrase box and forced into the motor.   If the causative does not have the hole its likely not quite an the correct motor, its from a application without AC.   If its the vicious centrifugal maybe its overloading the arrangement?

The vacuum line along my 78 was over by the brake relay transmitte if I am remembering correctly.    Does you emergency release work?  If you bear never used it don't step it down all the way, you don't want information technology to jam up someplace but if you put IT down a click or two so shift from park to R or D with the engine jetting it should release.  IF it does not you may get on track to your problem assuming 77 was the same as 78.   There is a manual release lever under the smash, if you know where it is you can reaching it while sitting in the seat just if you don't know where to grab you will likely have to look under there to find information technology.

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StPaul/Mpls, MN The States

73 Eldo convert w/FiTech EFI
80 Eldo Diesel
90 CDV
And new assorted stuff I keep buying for some reason

There is zero jam in the causative just I can run a wire to the battery and the motor works.

Parking brake spill plant fine.

I'm going to try to find the relay to see if it is the problem.

Thx

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Again I assume't know a 77 for careful but on a 78 its a metal enclosed relay that is maybe 1 column inch all-embracing and 2 inches long, maybe 1 1/2 inches magniloquent.   Seems like it had 4 or 5 pins.  On the 78's the contacts were apparently somewhat under rated so they would run hot and eventually distorted the body of the relay which sometimes ready-made IT stick on Beaver State not able to activate.  It also was not good for the connections which I assume equally they got hot began to tease and corrode.  On the 78's its in a plastic electrical relay block and the ones I dealt with the block was indeed badly melted you could non get the main contacts outer.   Along the ones I dealt with I replaced them with a more than modern font relay.  The connectors that can be separate from the block tally the new relay and the ones that were stuck had to be cut and replaced with recently crease ends.  Once again no idea if 77 was even remotely the cookie-cutter.....   And I believe a 78 Eldo was likewise not the same.  What I am talking about for certain only applies to the cars that got the 'new' plastic fuses and new fuse box.

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StPaul/Mpls, Manganese USA

73 Eldo convert w/FiTech EFI
80 Eldo Diesel
90 CDV
And some other assorted stuff I keep buying for some argue

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1935 Cadillac Sedan resto-mod "Big Red"
1973 Cadillac Caribou - Sold - but still in the family
1950 Jaguar Mark V Saloon resto-modern - Oversubscribed
1942 Cadillac 6269 - Sold
1968 Pontiac Bonneville Adaptable
1935 John Glenn Pray - Auburn Boattail Speedster, Gen. 2

You need the shop manual agree with other post.  e-coloured has them

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Fairfax Place, VA  22039 (Washington DC Sub)
1970 Cadillac DeVille Translatable
1970 Cadillac Sedan chair DeVille
1970 four door Convertible w/Cadillac Warranty

There is no hole in the motor but I can run a wire to the battery and the motor whole shebang.

Parking brake release works fine.

I'm going to try to find the relay to construe with if it is the problem.

Thx

The vent hose for the motor connect to the location shown in the photo below.

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Glen Houlton CLC #727
CLCMRC helper #104

Now the picture expands for Maine and I can see the pickle in the motive.    There should be a ground yellow journalism on the put OR nether one of the mounting screws.    Draw sure that is pristine (non painted) and tight.  Since the atmosphere box is plastic it won't work without that.   I suppose this time of origin ground was constant and the + was what was controlled.   I think with the introduction of the extremity clime control they changed the control method so the base was what the computer controlled.

When you perform a bypass test connected the drive be sure to use decent size of it wires, these draw a Lot of amps so if you utilise a small wire it will melt pretty quick.

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StPaul/Mpls, MN USA

73 Eldo convert w/FiTech EFI
80 Eldo Diesel motor
90 CDV
And other assorted stuff I keep buying for some reason

Satisfactory, now I  get a line the hole also. Forgot to put to sleep the hosiery back. So now I pulled the relays under the dash and unmatchable looks like it started to melt! See under. However it does not have a number or any markings on it thusly I Don River't know what to tell the autoparts store what I need to replace it.
Relay location look along bottom of the moving picture or left English of the box.
Any thoughts along how to identify this voice??

Thanks,

« Last Edit: July 14, 2013, 07:08:26 PM by USRobo »

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That looks a parcel out like all the others I have seen.  From what I remember same as the 78's.   The melted terminals don't quite a look carry, they are not brass looking like the others.  I wonder if they have already been replaced?   Before I put a sunrise relay in there I would privation to get a good view those connections and wire to piddle bound thither is not further equipment casualty to the wires or you bequeath have the same thing happen evenhandedly rapidly.    Like I mentioned on all of mine I replaced IT with a Modern relay that won't have that trouble.   With the socket melted you would need to supervene upon the whole assemblage to throw it 'correct' and 'original' anyway.   Shake Auto has both the OE style relays and conversion kits listed under 1977 CADILLAC DEVILLE 7.0L 425cid V8 : Electrical-Switch & Relay : Blower Centrifugal Relay

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StPaul/Mpls, MN U. S. Army

73 Eldo convert w/FiTech EFI
80 Eldo Diesel
90 CDV
And some other assorted stuff I hold up buying for some reason out

Thank you selfsame much. Everything on my automobile is original factory unless the dealer replaced something. I didn't see the conversion kits indeed I scarcely ordered this split up from Rock Auto.

http://WWW.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=38966&adenosine monophosphate;cc=1025446

I checked the wires and all looked good omit the elastic block where the relay plugs in. Looks like
It should make up hither by the weekend and I will let you know if solves the job or not.

Thanks again.

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I got the new relay plugged it in and it worked... The cetacean motive worked perfectly but only if for more or less 5 minutes. I started to put all the controls back into the dashboard and the blower would stop and when I pulled them prohibited it would turn on again. It did this several multiplication while putting everything back put together then IT finally just stopped.

I pulled the electrical relay out and it looks burnt. See below.

What would cause the relay to blow retired so cursorily?

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Since the new relay blew I received a suggestion that there may be a wire that is overheating and to check the wires that the relay plugs into because the wire connectors may need replaced.

However since the electrical block has melted the connector keep off the electrical relay is probably not going into the connexion properly. See pictures.

Is there any way to mess the melted openings or short-circuit them?

Thanks,

« Last Edit: July 22, 2013, 09:07:35 AM by USRobo »

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The melted connectors don't look stock to me.   They look equal standard crimp on replacements.   The originals would have had several sort of tab to lock chamber them into the bearer.    Only option I could date was what was equiprobable finished last time which was remove the old tinny parts and then grind out enough plastic to let replacement connectors clear.  You would then either connect the relay and then plug the replacement connectors from the backwards OR make the wires long enough on the replacement ones that you butt connect them first then thrust them through the hole as you plug in the relay to the odd ones.  It could happen again since it appears the relay was a a trifle undersized to begin with.

Connected mine I was able to take off the 2 un liquified pins and slue them onto a modern relay then I cut back the derelict wires and spliced new telegraph on with new connectors that fit the new electrical relay.  The kits come with a pigtail harness.

See if this join works

HTTP://web.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=818069&cc=1025446

FOUR SEASONS Part # 35747
Bosch Up-Grade

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StPaul/Mpls, MN USA

73 Eldo convert w/FiTech EFI
80 Eldo Diesel motor
90 CDV
And other assorted engorge I keep buying for some reason

The problem could Be as elementary as a worn blower motor. If information technology is the original, its pretty old and most likely pull to a fault many amps due to worn bearings. If you can, check the amperage draw of the sports fan. If not, I'd indicate a new causative since most of the melted connectors I have seen like that have been due to worn sports fan motors.

T Meriwether Lewis

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Fan Not Working on 2000 Cadillac Sls Blower for Heater and Air Conditioning

Source: https://forums.cadillaclasalleclub.org/index.php?topic=125987.0

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